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Thread: 1978 Honda NC50 Restoration

  1. #51
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    Got the use of a multi tool from a friend so i trimmed the flanges and all the vibrations caused the plug to release itself from the mold!

    Awesome result. The mold is pretty perfect just a couple of pinhole bubbles on the edge but i will mix some gelcoat and fill them.

    The PVA did its job but does leave a light surface texture on the mold surface so after a light sand it should be good to go.

    Cheers.

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  3. #52
    Life Member Peter's Avatar
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    A few days.......we cant wait that long. You have to put picts up of other stuff on it.
    If i'm elected PM, I'll build a bridge from Tasmania for Dex to escape over.

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  5. #53
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    Going back to the final drive sprocket i had cut we found that the pitch is an odd size at 8.5mm

    The normal size pitch for that size chain is 8.00mm

    Lots of motorcycle manufactures use special size chains and sprockets

    Anyway the sprocket cutters did not have or get a hold of a 8.5mm Hob, so i ordered one from a company in India who specialize in sprocket and gear Hobs

    The Hob arrived today and here are some photos of the two sprockets against the Hob.

    I will get a few cut at once and if they work i will hopefully sell some to recover some costs.

    Cheers.

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  7. #54
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    Here are some photos of the first layup in the rear guard mold.

    First i waxed the mold surface a few times then a few coats of PVA mold release.

    Next a coat of white Gelcoat was applied and once tacked off a layer of surface tissue then a layer of cloth.

    Allow to cure to a stage where i can trim the excess without lifting any fibres

    Then i applied a final coat of Gelcoat and allowed it to tack then applied PVA to seal the gel from the air so it will cure completely dry.

    Cheers.

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  8. #55
    Life Member Peter's Avatar
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    mmmm. don't ya just looooovvvee fibreglass.
    If i'm elected PM, I'll build a bridge from Tasmania for Dex to escape over.

  9. #56
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    It sure is amazing stuff Peter.

    Here is the first guard out of the mold.

    Turned out really good. Just need to fine tune the mold a bit around the edge.

    Also a bit too flimsy i will add a couple more layers of mat on the next one.

    Cheers.

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  10. #57
    Forum Member Magilla's Avatar
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    That's an amazing amount of work mate - great job.

  11. #58
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    you have a great range of skills , top work

  12. #59
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    Hi there,

    I have been working on the front guard mold and finally finished!

    Hope to start laying up some new guards soon.

    Cheers.

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  13. #60
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    Here are some photos of the foot rest covers being prepared for silicon mold making.

    The covers are first mounted on to a board with clay.

    The clay is then smoothed out in line with the bottom edge of the part.

    This will form the parting line of the silicon 2 part mold.

    I then used a paint brush handle to put registration holes in the clay so that the silicon will flow into them and when the 2nd part is poured, with the clay removed, it will locate the two parts of the mold for pouring the mold plastic.

    More to come!

    Cheers.

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  14. #61
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    Here is the foot rest guard ready for pouring silicon.

    I used 5mm thick corflute board cut into strips and hot glued into place.

    Just need to do the other guard the same then mix and pour the silicon.

    I will need 1.8kg of silicon for each guard mold.

    This stuff is not cheap so i will be taking my time with them.

    The back side of the mold will be a lot trickier as i will need to add vent risers and a fill port for the polyurethane resin

    Hopefully i will be able to sell a few to recover some costs as these too are hard to find.

    Cheers.

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  16. #62
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    Hi there,

    Here are photos of the silicon poured into mould for the footrest guards and the type of silicon i used.

    Bit concerned about all the fine bubbles in the silicon from mixing but they are supposed to rise to the top.

    Hopefully should be all good.

    Cheers.

    IMG_7074.jpg

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  18. #63
    Life Member Peter's Avatar
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    Looks like a miniature construction site concrete pour.

    My friend makes model railway buildings etc with the same stuff, he makes dozens of bits with one mould before it gets a bit ratty. How about vibrating it to release bubbles?
    If i'm elected PM, I'll build a bridge from Tasmania for Dex to escape over.

  19. #64
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    Hi Peter,

    LOL It does look like a mini concrete pour!

    Must be the Chippy in me.

    I did run my palm sander on the backing board for a while so hopefully that will do the trick.

    Pretty cool what can be done with resins and moulds hey!

    Cheers.

  20. #65
    Life Member Peter's Avatar
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    He tried the vacume chamber thingo but i think it wasn't worth the extra effert. I think stirring the mix 'smoothly' and pouring slowly was just as good.

    His site is Old Dog railways.
    If i'm elected PM, I'll build a bridge from Tasmania for Dex to escape over.

  21. #66
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    Hi there,

    Here are photos of the first half of the silicon mould after demoulding.

    It is hard to see in the photos but results are great, the surface of the mould is perfect.

    Only needs a bit of cleanup of some flashing's

    Now for the second half of the mould.

    Cheers.

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  23. #67
    Moderator Diggs's Avatar
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    Looks great mate, cant wait to see them painted up.
    Rigby "No dude, you're doing it wrong! Righty-tidey, lefty-losey! Not lefty-tidey mess it up because you're a loser!"

    ZRX1200S, RGV250 VJ22, Skyteam T-Rex, Z50J1 '78, XV250 Virago

  24. #68
    Life Member Peter's Avatar
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    We weren't expecting anything short of perfection
    If i'm elected PM, I'll build a bridge from Tasmania for Dex to escape over.

  25. #69
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    Hi there,

    Here are some photos of the second half of the mould being poured.

    I have super glued pointed acrylic dowels around the edges and high points of the guard.

    This allows the resin to flow from one end to the other without trapping any air.

    The bigger dowel will be the fill port.

    I will allow this to set then pour some resin before i do the other one in case i need to adjust any vents.

    Cheers.

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  27. #70
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    Hi there,

    Here are photos of both halves of the mould with the guard removed.

    You can see the vent holes along the edges of the guard's shape.

    I have to make backing boards for the mould to hold both side flat when i tape them together.

    Just need to get some resin mixed and see how they turn out.

    Cheers.

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  28. #71
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    Hi there,

    Here are photos of the first resin pour of the right hand guard.

    Sprayed both surfaces with mould release then taped the mould to the backing boards.

    Next i put plastic straws into all the vents and made a pour funnel from some plastic laminating sheet.

    Then i mixed the two part resins together and mixed thoroughly for 30 seconds then poured the resin slowly into the funnel.

    Having the mould on a slope allows the resin to flow quickly into all the high points and flow up the vent straws.

    The first part out of the mould had a couple of defects so i had to put another vent in the mould as there was air trapped in the area of the mounting hole.

    Also adjusted the orientation of the mould for the second pour to reach the high point of the mould.

    Very happy with the part's finish and very little clean up needed.

    Cheers.

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  30. #72
    Moderator Diggs's Avatar
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    Apart from the minor flaws it looks great mate! Lack of parts availability was one of the major reasons I got rid of my NC50s, this is commitment!
    Rigby "No dude, you're doing it wrong! Righty-tidey, lefty-losey! Not lefty-tidey mess it up because you're a loser!"

    ZRX1200S, RGV250 VJ22, Skyteam T-Rex, Z50J1 '78, XV250 Virago

  31. #73
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    Hi there,

    Here are some photos of the third resin pour part on the right

    The second pour still had some trapped air so i had to put extra air vents around the edges and this one is pretty good

    May need a bit more tweeking on the mould but very happy with the results

    Cheers.

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  33. #74
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    Here are some photos of the extra modifications i did to the mould.

    Around the edges i cut narrow v grooves in the silicon, to form sprues, to allow resin to push any remaining air into.

    The sprues will be cut off and sanded smooth

    The edge of these guards are really thin and this mod has worked well.

    Cheers.

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    On the bike!

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  35. #75
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    Hi there,

    The air filter holder/frame and cover for the bike are missing so i will be making up my own

    Here are photos of what should be there ( The orange cover and the metal filter holder/frame )

    Also photos of my interpretation of the filter holder/frame so far

    Just need to weld it together.

    I will make a foam and filler plug/mould of the cover and make it out of fibreglass.

    Cheers.

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  37. #76
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    Hi there,

    Here are some photos of the foam being prepped and body filler applied ready for initial shaping.

    Cheers.

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    Initial Shaping done!

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  38. #77
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    How would you go with a vibrating pad/table to get rid of the air ,,?
    As they do with setting concrete ,,,and to make clear ice blocks for sculptures and such .
    its engine oil madge ,,,
    Your soaking in it ,,!!

  39. #78
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    Quote Originally Posted by dex View Post
    How would you go with a vibrating pad/table to get rid of the air ,,?
    As they do with setting concrete ,,,and to make clear ice blocks for sculptures and such .
    Hi Dex,

    With the extra sprues and vents cut and a bit of tapping of the mould once the resin is poured there are no defects now.

    Cheers

  40. #79
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    Hi there,

    Here are photos of the air filter cover details.

    I cut some grooves through the top of the mould with the Dremel then cut thin strips of plastic rod to suit and bogged them into place.

    Once they are removed they will give a detail groove around the cover similar to the original.

    Once this has set and been sanded i will cut the reliefs for the mounting screws.

    I have also added a flange for the fibreglassing

    Cheers

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  41. #80
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    Hi there,

    Here are some more photos of the air filter cover details

    I fixed the mould plug to a wood box so i could build a temporary router table and fence around it

    The cover has reliefs for the mounting screws so this was the way i cut them into the plug with the router.

    Cheers.

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  43. #81
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    Hi there,

    Here are some more photos of the air filter cover.

    Filled any defects then primed and sanded

    Mounted to the filter housing and i filled any gaps with clay

    Then i sprayed PVA to the whole setup ready for gelcoat.

    Cheers.

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    First gelcoat applied

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  45. #82
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    Loving everything about this build mate - keep the updates coming (although I realise you're doing a lot more than just bolting on bits - so it takes a lot longer!!!!).
    Rigby "No dude, you're doing it wrong! Righty-tidey, lefty-losey! Not lefty-tidey mess it up because you're a loser!"

    ZRX1200S, RGV250 VJ22, Skyteam T-Rex, Z50J1 '78, XV250 Virago

  46. #83
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    Thanks Diggs,

    Will keep them coming.

    Yeah will be a long build for sure but making progress slowly!

    Here is the mold with cove in the corners and the cutouts. This adds strength and allows the mat a shallower transition at right angles

    Also added a back board for ease of mould making later.

    Cheers.

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  48. #84
    Life Member Peter's Avatar
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    Lucky you're doing it, I would have put it in the too hard basket long ago.
    If i'm elected PM, I'll build a bridge from Tasmania for Dex to escape over.

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  50. #85
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    Quote Originally Posted by Peter View Post
    Lucky you're doing it, I would have put it in the too hard basket long ago.
    Hi Peter,

    I read this to my wife and she agrees with you there.

    I think the hours put in will be worth it in the end to see it returned to its former glory. ( Wife shaking her head in background ) lol!

    Cheers.

    Here is the mould finished

    Had a couple of small holes to fix but all done and ready to make the part.

    IMG_7125.jpg

  51. #86
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    wow , your wife is not the only one , I found myself shaking my head too after each update. you must have a lot of spare time.

  52. #87
    Life Member Peter's Avatar
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    I think it's the 'fun' (challenge really) of getting something, be it a bike, car or even a mower, and bringing it back from certain death. Sort of the mechanical equivalent of a ER department. Lol
    "We have the technology, we can rebuild it better, stronger, faster".........well, atlest get it going again.
    If i'm elected PM, I'll build a bridge from Tasmania for Dex to escape over.

  53. #88
    MOTY Winner 2012/2013 babu's Avatar
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    Amazing work!

  54. #89
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    Thanks babu, I really appreciate the positive comments and likes.

    Here is the mould PVA'd, gelcoated and fibreglassed

    Cheers.

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  56. #90
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    Really looking forward to seeing the airbox cover mate, recreating the fenders was pretty awesome - but making this without having ANYTHING to copy off is truly awesome.

    You have my BOTY vote already just based on the amount of work you've put into this. With an unlimited budget most people here could bolt an amazing Take/Kitaco laden bike together - but this is craftsmanship!
    Rigby "No dude, you're doing it wrong! Righty-tidey, lefty-losey! Not lefty-tidey mess it up because you're a loser!"

    ZRX1200S, RGV250 VJ22, Skyteam T-Rex, Z50J1 '78, XV250 Virago

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  58. #91
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    Hi there,

    Here is the replica airbox cover out of the mould

    Fits real nice to the backing part

    Needed a bit of sanding and is ready for paint.

    Cheers.

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  60. #92
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    you have excellent skills , dido to diggs comments , a work of art.

  61. #93
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    Thanks mh185

    This is what the whole air filter assembly looks like put together.

    Just needs a sand and a good clean and i can get some paint down to finish.

    Cheers.

    IMG_7130.jpg

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  63. #94
    Life Member Peter's Avatar
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    What do you use to paint plastics? I bead blast, clean and plasti prep, seems successful so far.
    If i'm elected PM, I'll build a bridge from Tasmania for Dex to escape over.

  64. #95
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    Quote Originally Posted by Peter View Post
    What do you use to paint plastics? I bead blast, clean and plasti prep, seems successful so far.
    Hi Peter,

    I sand with 80 grit till all shine is gone. This leaves a really rough surface and bits of sanded plastic stick up through the primer.

    Then clean with plasti prep then i use this bumper primer really good adhesion and it is high build.

    Three coats of the primer below.

    IMG_7134.jpg

    Then sand 220.

    IMG_7135.jpg

    and then a couple more coats of primer then wet sand 400 then 1K colour, colour sand 800 and clear coat.

    IMG_7137.jpg

    IMG_7138.jpg

    Cheers.

    IMG_7133.jpg

    PS. i also bead blast where i cant get to with the 80 grit

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  66. #96
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    Hi there,

    Here are some photos of the air filter housing all painted.

    The air filter cover turned out great

    Very happy with the overall result!

    Cheers.

    IMG_7140.jpg

    IMG_7141.jpg

    IMG_7139.jpg

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  68. #97
    Life Member Peter's Avatar
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    Bloody awesome, you can be proud of what you've achieved. Not only have you brought it back from the daed, it's probably better than new.
    If i'm elected PM, I'll build a bridge from Tasmania for Dex to escape over.

  69. #98
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    Thanks Peter.

    I will be starting on the frame next.

    There is a bit of repair welding and straightening needed on the frame but overall it is in good shape.

    Need to weld in new weld nuts for the rear rack as the originals were drilled out

    Also need to build up the steering stops on the frame and forks as these are really worn

    Cheers.

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  70. #99
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    Hi there, here are some photos of the modifications i made to the fuel tank.

    I removed both outlet pipes then blanked of the fuel outlet, (as it goes through the oil tank section),and re-positioned the fuel pipe to the oil outlet point. (as this is the lowest part of the two part tank).

    I then drilled holes through the fuel compartment so that fuel now has access to the whole tank. I also removed and blocked off the sight glass on the side of the tank.

    I also repaired a few pin holes due to rust and added a tank liner to the inside.

    I will be using premix so this mod will give me more range.

    Cheers.

    IMG_7382.jpg

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  72. #100
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    Hi there,

    Here is a photo of the frame repaired, filled, high build primered and sanded ready for paint.

    Cheers.

    IMG_7396.jpg

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