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[GROM] [DIY] Disable Daytime Running Lights (DRLs)

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  • [GROM] [DIY] Disable Daytime Running Lights (DRLs)

    The Australian delivered Grom comes with Daytime Running Lights (DRLs) via a dual element globe in each of the front indicators. As most owners do not like the look of having both indicators permanently lit, this short guide will show you how to disable them with modifications that are reversible if needed. Hopefully it will be easy enough for anyone to follow.

    Turn off ignition before beginning these step.

    1. Remove the 4 Allen head bolts (5mm Allen key/driver) holding the front headlight assembly on.

    Pic 1.jpg

    2. Tilt headlight assembly forward while flexing the plastic slightly to clear top mounts. Once free of the top mounts, flex the bottom plastic one side at a time to clear the bottom mounts. (The bottom mounts can be released easier by removing the trim pin at the base of the headlight. However this style of pin can be damaged by removal.)

    3. With the headlight now free of the mounts, tilt it forward and lower it down to reveal the headlight wiring and connectors. (Take care not to hit or scratch your front fender!)

    4. Disconnect the 2 wiring connectors that run to the headlight assembly. 1 dark grey connector on the rear of the housing, and one white connector up towards the instrument pod. This white connector is the one we will be modifying, on the headlight side.

    Pic 2.jpg

    5. Place the headlight assembly lens down on a soft surface. On the white connector, locate the 2 wires - Orange/White and Blue/White. These are the DRL wires. Note the position of the locking tab to locate them easier.

    Pic 3.jpg

    6. Slide the end of a very small flat screwdriver or similar tool into the top of the hole above the terminal, as pictured. This will press down the locking tab on the terminal. (The locking tabs may 'click' and stay down, or you may need to leave the screwdriver/tool in place to hold the tab down)

    Pic 4.jpg

    7. With the locking tab down, carefully pull the wire out from the back of the connector. If it doesn't come out easily, you may need to press down on the locking tab gently with your screwdriver/tool while pulling on the wire.

    Pic 5.jpg

    8. Fold the 2 loose wires and terminals back and tape them to the loom. The tape is really only to stop them getting caught or rattling, as by modifying the headlight side of the connector the 2 loose terminals will never have power on them.

    Pic 6.jpg

    9. Now reverse the steps used to remove the headlight assembly to put it back on, taking care the wiring looms don't get caught on anything. Once assembled, test all lights and move steering lock to lock to make sure nothing will get caught or is binding.

    No more DRLs.

    To enable DRLs again: Simply bend the locking tabs up slightly on the 2 loose terminals to reset them and push them back into the connector.

  • #2
    Cheers I was wondering about that.

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    • #3
      Awesome

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      • #4
        Beauty, I love how to stuff. :-)
        Especially with great pictures.
        Once I thought I was wrong, I was mistaken

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        • #5
          Originally posted by Nick View Post
          The Australian delivered Grom comes with Daytime Running Lights (DRLs) via a dual element globe in each of the front indicators. As most owners do not like the look of having both indicators permanently lit, this short guide will show you how to disable them with modifications that are reversible if needed. Hopefully it will be easy enough for anyone to follow.
          Hi All. The last post was a while ago - but, just like me, others might be wanting to address the DRL issue. Here is an alternative that I did which may be of some interest.

          As Nick has said the blinker bulb is a dual element globe (5W/21W) with the 5W as running light and the 21W as the actual blinker. Looking at the wiring diagram the 5W filament is disabled when the blinker is active and initially I thought that might be a way of disabling it all the time - but that turned out not to be the case. It seemed the only way was to disassemble to headlight assembly to gain access to the connectors and remove the 5W line wire from the connector as described. After sleeping on it overnight I thought - why not disable the element in the bulb itself ? This would reduce the task to not much more than replacing a bulb. My idea to do this was to identify the 5W element in a removed bulb and apply an over-voltage via a separate, external supply to blow it. I tried this with a 30V power supply but, while making the 5W element really bright, this did not burn it out as I expected. Not to be defeated I thought "Why not file/scrape back the solder blob flush on the base of the bulb to prevent a connection in the bulb holder ?" That did not work as the spring-loaded contact in the bulb holder still had enough spring to reach the scraped solder blob and the running light still came on. The last idea (which worked) was to apply an insulating layer over the scraped contact. The steps are shown below...

          NOTE: Getting the bulbs out was a pain and you must be careful not to break the bulb and injure yourself - even though the removal of the bulbs would be an owner action for a normal blown bulb. Like seat removal on the GROM, there is a trick to it - which was only discovered by fiddling.

          TOOLS: Philips head screwdriver to remove blinker lenses; Stanley knife to scrape/cut back 5W solder blob flush; electrical tape to act as an insulator.

          Step 1: Remove bulb. Identify the 5W solder blob on the bulb base. I did this by applying 12V between the outer metal case of the bulb and each solder blob on the base in turn and noting which blob connects to the dimmer 5W element (in my bulb the 5W element is the longer, thinner one). In my bulbs the 5W solder blob is on the left when the bulb is viewed as shown here. In my bulb there is a grey coating inside the bulb on the centre stem which should be facing you. Also, there are two lugs on the outer case which locate the bulb in the holder. These are offset at different distances from the base (to ensure the bulb goes in the right way) and the one furthest from the base (i.e., closest to the glass) should be towards you. If you have a multimeter you can identify the 5W solder blob as it has the higher resistance of the two when measured to the metal case.

          Step 2: Scrape the 5W solder blob back to being flush with the base. Initially you can cut away the bulk of the soft solder with the Stanley knife and then proceed to scrape it flush. See here.

          Step 3: Cover the base with a piece of electrical insulating tape over both blobs. See here.

          Step 4: Trim off the tape around the edge of the base with scissors to ensure tape doesn't go up the sides. Also cut around the untouched 21W blinker element solder blob to ensure it still makes a contact. Don't forget this !!! See here (sorry for the blurry image). Note how only the 21W blob is uncovered.

          Step 5: Replace bulb

          Step 6: repeat for other blinker.

          Hope this all makes sense.

          Time taken (after assembling tools) 10 minutes.

          If for some reason you want/have to restore DRLs then it is simply a matter of replacing the modified bulbs with a normal one.

          Caveats: There is a possibility, over time, for vibration to wear through the thin insulating tape, but this is not critical to the blinker operation and so can be remedied at leisure.

          Hope this is of some interest.

          Cheers

          Steve

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          • #6
            Pictures fixed
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            • #7
              I know Jack sh*t about Groms but if you disable the indicator running lights isn't that a ADR thing? Does the headlight work like most other bikes?
              Once I thought I was wrong, I was mistaken

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              • #8
                Originally posted by Peter View Post
                I know Jack sh*t about Groms but if you disable the indicator running lights isn't that a ADR thing? Does the headlight work like most other bikes?
                According to Vehicle Standard (Australian Design Rule 76/00 - Daytime Running Lamps) 2006 (current), see here, Paragraph 9...

                9. Colour of light

                The colour of the light shall be white...



                So, the stock blinker DRLs (which are under the orange blinker lens) are non-compliant to the ADR. This is commonsense as you don't want the DRLs confused with blinkers. During daytime with the stock steady orange DRLs sharing the blinker housing, they can appear to blink when going in and out of shadows - you don't want to give tin-tops another excuse for running over you.

                The always-on headlights on the GROM (which are white) are my DRLs - which is non-confusing - and ADR compliant.

                Also according to Vehicle Standard (Australian Design Rule 19/02 - Installation of Lighting and Light Signalling Devices on L-Group Vehicles) 2005 (current), see here, Paragraph 5.11.1...

                5.11.1. If installed, the daytime running lamp shall automatically be ON when the engine is running. If the headlamp is switched on, the daytime running lamp shall not come on when the engine is running.

                So, the stock DRLs are non-compliant to this also...

                See also further down in the same ADR...

                5.13 Colour of the lights - running lamp shall be white.

                6.13.1 Presence - DRL optional for motorcycles.

                6.13.7.1 The daytime running lamp shall switch OFF automatically when the headlamps are switched ON, except when the latter are used to give intermittent luminous warnings at short intervals.

                Therefore, on my reading of the ADRs, my modification has made my GROM more compliant.

                Cheers

                Steve

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                • #9
                  I run switch back bulbs on my Grom.
                  Just replace the orange lens covers with white or smoked ones, 2 new bulbs that display white in 5w side light /del mode and orang in 21w indicator mode,and a new variable flasher relay as the load is now reduced.
                  Whole things comes in under 15

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                  • #10
                    Here's a video I made
                    https://youtu.be/qmfK6d0FYwk

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